Sowing and Germination

Spring is one of the most exciting times for every gardener. Nature awakens from winter slumber, days get longer, and temperatures gradually rise. It's the perfect time to start planning and preparing your garden for the upcoming season. But what can actually be planted early in spring, and what tasks should you focus on?

When Does Spring Actually Start in the Garden?

Meteorological spring begins on March 1st, but for gardeners, the real start of the season depends on weather conditions and soil temperature. The key factor is when the soil thaws and warms up to at least 5-8°C. This usually happens in late March or early April, depending on your region and altitude.

It's important to monitor weather forecasts and be prepared for potential late frosts, which can occur even in May. Therefore, it's advisable to have protective materials ready, such as garden fleece or cold frames.

What Vegetables to Plant Early in Spring

Early spring is ideal for sowing and planting cold-resistant vegetables that can tolerate lower temperatures and even light frosts. Here's an overview of the most suitable crops:

Direct Sowing into Soil

• Peas - can be sown as early as March, as soon as the soil is workable. They tolerate cold well and are among the first fresh vegetables you can harvest.
• Spinach - extremely frost-resistant, can be sown from March onwards. Prefers cooler weather and provides quick harvests.
• Lettuce - early varieties can be sown directly or planted as seedlings. Protect from strong sun and keep soil moist.
• Radishes - fast-growing crop, ideal for early sowing. You can harvest in 3-4 weeks.
• Carrots - early varieties can be sown from March. Choose loose, deep soil.
• Parsley and dill - hardy herbs that can be sown as soon as the soil is workable.
• Broad beans - sown in March-April, highly frost-resistant.
• Onions and garlic - garlic is typically planted in autumn, but spring varieties can be planted in March-April.

Planting Seedlings

If you've prepared seedlings at home or purchased them, you can plant them outdoors in early spring:

• Cabbage - early varieties (white cabbage, savoy cabbage, kohlrabi) can be planted from late March, with frost protection.
• Lettuce - seedlings planted in spring will give you an earlier harvest than direct sowing.
• Cauliflower and broccoli - cold-resistant varieties can be planted in April.

What Flowers to Plant in Spring

Spring is also time to beautify your garden with colorful flowers. Some species can be planted very early:

• Pansies - extremely frost-resistant, can be planted as early as March.
• Primroses - among the first spring flowers, suitable for planting in early spring.
• Crocuses, snowdrops, daffodils - if you didn't plant bulbs in autumn, you can purchase pre-grown plants in pots.
• Sweet peas - can be sown directly into soil from April.
• Calendula - hardy annual that can be sown early in spring.

Preparing the Garden for Spring Season

Besides planting, early spring is time for important preparatory tasks that will ensure your garden thrives throughout the season:

1. Soil Preparation

Once the soil has thawed and dried slightly, it's time to prepare beds for planting. Loosen the soil with a fork or cultivator, remove weeds, and incorporate compost or well-rotted manure. This will improve soil structure and provide plants with necessary nutrients.

2. Pruning Trees and Shrubs

March and early April are ideal months for pruning fruit trees and ornamental shrubs. Remove damaged, diseased, or crossing branches. Proper pruning promotes healthy growth and better yields.

3. Protecting Plants from Frost

Even though spring is here, frosts can still occur. Protect early plantings with garden fleece, cold frames, or cloches. These materials help maintain higher temperatures around plants and shield them from cold winds.

4. Starting Composting

Spring is the perfect time to establish a new compost pile or revitalize an existing one. Collect plant waste, grass clippings, and kitchen scraps. Quality compost is the best fertilizer for your garden.

5. Lawn Care

Once the lawn has dried, rake it to remove dead grass and moss. You can also apply spring lawn fertilizer to promote healthy, green growth. If needed, overseed bare patches.

6. Checking Irrigation Systems

If you use an irrigation system, check its functionality after winter. Clean filters, inspect hoses for damage, and test all connections.

Tips for Successful Spring Gardening

• Don't rush - it's better to wait a few days for the soil to warm up than to sow into cold, wet soil where seeds may rot.
• Monitor weather forecasts - be prepared for sudden temperature drops and protect your plants.
• Use mulch - mulching beds helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
• Water regularly - spring can be dry, so ensure plants have adequate water, especially after planting.
• Rotate crops - don't plant the same vegetables in the same location as the previous year to prevent soil depletion and disease buildup.

Conclusion

Early spring is a magical time in the garden when everything starts anew. With proper planning and timely action, you can enjoy a rich harvest and beautiful flowers throughout the season. Don't be afraid to experiment, learn from experience, and most importantly - enjoy working in the garden!

Now you know what to plant early in spring and how to prepare your garden for the upcoming season. So grab your tools and get started - your garden is waiting for you!

Germination is the process by which a seed transforms into a seedling. For this miracle to occur, three essential conditions must be met: adequate moisture, proper temperature, and sufficient oxygen. Some seeds also require light, while others prefer darkness.

Each seed contains an embryo and a supply of nutrients stored in the endosperm or cotyledons. When conditions are right, the seed absorbs water, swells, and breaks through its protective coating. The radicle (embryonic root) emerges first, followed by the shoot that will become the stem and leaves.

Success begins with high-quality seeds. Always purchase from reputable suppliers and check expiration dates. Fresh seeds have higher germination rates than old ones. Store unused seeds in a cool, dry, dark place to maintain their viability.

Consider these factors when selecting seeds:

• Germination rate information on the package
• Appropriate varieties for your climate zone
• Organic or treated seeds based on your growing philosophy
• Hybrid versus heirloom varieties

Gather your materials before you begin:

• Growing medium: Use sterile seed starting mix, not garden soil. Products from BioBizz or Plagron offer excellent options specifically formulated for germination
• Containers: Seed trays, peat pots, or recycled containers with drainage holes
• Labels: Mark varieties and sowing dates
• Spray bottle: For gentle watering
• Clear plastic covers or humidity domes: To maintain moisture
• Heat mat: Optional but helpful for warmth-loving seeds
• Grow lights: If natural light is insufficient

1. Prepare Your Containers

Clean and disinfect containers if reusing them from previous seasons. Fill containers with moistened seed starting mix, leaving about 1 cm from the top. Gently firm the surface to eliminate air pockets, but don't compact it.

2. Sow at the Correct Depth

The general rule: plant seeds at a depth of 2-3 times their diameter. Tiny seeds like lettuce or basil need only light surface coverage or none at all. Larger seeds like beans or peas can go deeper.

• Very fine seeds: Sprinkle on the surface and press gently
• Small seeds: 3-6 mm deep
• Medium seeds: 12-25 mm deep
• Large seeds: 25-50 mm deep

3. Provide Proper Spacing

Don't overcrowd seeds. Proper spacing prevents damping-off disease and makes transplanting easier. When sowing in rows, follow packet instructions. In cells or individual pots, sow 2-3 seeds per container and thin to the strongest seedling later.

4. Water Gently

After sowing, water with a fine mist or spray bottle to avoid displacing seeds. The growing medium should be consistently moist but never waterlogged. Bottom watering (placing trays in shallow water) is an excellent alternative that prevents disturbance.

5. Create the Right Environment

Cover containers with clear plastic domes or plastic wrap to maintain humidity and warmth. Remove covers once seedlings emerge to prevent fungal diseases. Most seeds germinate best between 18-24°C, though requirements vary by species.

Temperature

Temperature is often the most critical factor. Cool-season crops like lettuce and spinach prefer 15-18°C, while warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers need 21-27°C. A heat mat can provide bottom warmth for heat-loving seeds.

Light Requirements

Some seeds need light to germinate (lettuce, celery, snapdragon) while others require darkness (phlox, calendula, delphinium). Check seed packets for specific requirements. Once germinated, all seedlings need bright light—at least 12-16 hours daily.

Moisture Balance

Consistent moisture is essential, but overwatering is a common killer of seedlings. The growing medium should feel like a well-wrung sponge. Check daily and water as needed. Using a humidity dome reduces watering frequency during germination.

Air Circulation

Once seedlings emerge, provide gentle air circulation with a small fan. This strengthens stems and helps prevent fungal diseases like damping-off. Don't direct strong airflow at delicate seedlings.

Remove Covers Promptly

As soon as you see green shoots, remove humidity covers. Continued high humidity at this stage invites fungal problems.

Provide Adequate Light

Move seedlings to a bright location immediately. If using artificial lighting, position lights 5-10 cm above seedlings and raise them as plants grow. Inadequate light causes spindly, weak seedlings.

Thin Seedlings

If multiple seeds germinated in one cell, thin to the strongest seedling by snipping extras at soil level. Don't pull them out, as this disturbs roots of the keeper seedling.

Begin Fertilizing

Once true leaves appear (the second set of leaves), begin feeding with diluted liquid fertilizer. Use quarter-strength initially, gradually increasing to half-strength. Products from BioBizz or Plagron designed for young plants work excellently.

Learn from these frequent errors:

• Using garden soil: It's too heavy and may contain pathogens. Always use sterile seed starting mix
• Planting too deep: Seeds lack the energy to push through excessive soil
• Overwatering: Causes rot and damping-off disease. Let the surface dry slightly between waterings
• Insufficient light: Results in leggy, weak seedlings that struggle to thrive
• Inconsistent temperature: Fluctuations stress seedlings and slow growth
• Starting too early: Seedlings become overgrown before outdoor conditions are suitable
• Forgetting to harden off: Gradually acclimate indoor seedlings to outdoor conditions before transplanting

Pre-soak Large Seeds

Seeds with hard coats like beans, peas, or morning glories benefit from pre-soaking for 12-24 hours before planting. This softens the seed coat and speeds germination.

Scarification for Tough Seeds

Some seeds have extremely hard coats that benefit from scarification—lightly scratching or nicking the seed coat with sandpaper or a file to allow water penetration.

Stratification for Certain Perennials

Some perennial seeds require a cold period to break dormancy. Place seeds in moist medium in the refrigerator for the specified time before sowing.

Keep Records

Maintain a germination journal noting what you planted, when, germination rates, and results. This information becomes invaluable for future planning.

Practice Patience

Different seeds have different germination times. Some sprout in 3-5 days, others take 2-3 weeks. Don't give up too early—check seed packets for expected germination timeframes.

Seeds Don't Germinate

Possible causes include old seeds, incorrect temperature, planting too deep, or overwatering. Check each variable and try again.

Seedlings Fall Over and Die (Damping-off)

This fungal disease thrives in overly wet, poorly ventilated conditions. Prevention includes using sterile medium, avoiding overwatering, providing air circulation, and proper spacing.

Leggy, Stretched Seedlings

Insufficient light causes this problem. Move to brighter location or add supplemental lighting. Lower temperatures also help produce stockier seedlings.

Slow Growth

Cold temperatures are the usual culprit. Ensure growing area meets temperature requirements. Insufficient nutrients can also slow growth once true leaves appear.

Before moving seedlings permanently outdoors, they must be gradually acclimated to outdoor conditions—a process called hardening off:

• Begin 7-10 days before transplanting
• Start with 1-2 hours in filtered shade outdoors
• Gradually increase time and sun exposure daily
• Bring plants in if frost threatens
• Reduce watering slightly to toughen plants
• After a week, plants can stay out overnight if temperatures allow

Successful seed germination requires attention to detail but isn't complicated. Use quality seeds, provide proper moisture and temperature, ensure adequate light after germination, and avoid common pitfalls like overwatering and insufficient light. With these fundamentals mastered, you'll enjoy high germination rates and vigorous seedlings ready to thrive in your garden.

Remember that every gardener learns through experience. Don't be discouraged by occasional failures—they're learning opportunities. Keep experimenting, take notes, and soon you'll develop an intuitive sense for what your seeds need. Happy growing!

Winter still reigns outside and the landscape is covered in snow, but we gardeners are already thinking about sowing. How do we actually do it to pre-grow everything in the comfort of our home when we don't have a cold frame or heated greenhouse?

It may not look like it outside yet, but the gardening season is just beginning. Many plants that you won't be planting in the garden bed until May need to be sown indoors by the window as early as February. Which ones are they and how to proceed?

The garden season starts in full swing in April. If the weather permits, you can already sow more hardy vegetable varieties directly into the beds without worry, and plant seedlings of heat-loving crops in the greenhouse or polytunnel. There's still time for pre-growing vegetable and flower seedlings on the windowsill.

A real hotbed heated with manure used to be an essential part of vegetable gardens. In newly established gardens today, you won't see it very often. Instead, simpler tools and portable covers are used, which partially replace its function. Who should invest in building a hotbed, what is it used for, and how to proceed?

Can't Wait to Get Your Hands Back in the Soil? Spring is Just Around the Corner!

Are you counting down the days until your garden awakens and you can happily plunge your hands into the soil again? Don't worry, it's coming soon! Days are getting longer, daytime temperatures are rising. Spring is just around the corner. Which vegetables can you sow in your beds first, and when is the right time?

Preparing for the Upcoming Garden Season

Preparations for the upcoming garden season are in full swing. There's still so much to prepare, arrange, and plan. Although some plants are pre-grown from January onwards, the real growing rush on windowsills typically happens in March, when most common vegetable and annual flower varieties are sown—those that move outdoors only "after the last frost".

Post-Holiday Detox: Natural Ways to Get Back in Shape

Christmas and New Year's celebrations are long gone, but besides pleasant memories, you're left with a few extra pounds? Wondering how to get back in shape and cleanse your body worn out by sweets and alcohol? Look around for the green gifts that nature has prepared for you.

Do you have leftover seeds from previous seasons and aren't sure if they're still usable? We'll teach you how to perform a germination test and add some useful tips.

Discovering a forgotten packet of seeds in your drawer can feel like finding hidden treasure – but will they still grow? The good news is that many seeds remain viable for years if stored properly. Before you toss them out or plant them with uncertainty, a simple germination test can tell you exactly what to expect.

Why Test Seed Viability?

Seeds don't last forever. Over time, their germination rate naturally declines. Testing your old seeds helps you:

• Avoid wasting time and garden space on non-viable seeds
• Plan your seed orders more accurately
• Determine if you need to sow more densely to compensate for lower germination
• Save money by using seeds you already have

How Long Do Seeds Stay Viable?

Different seeds have different shelf lives when stored in cool, dry, and dark conditions:

• 1-2 years: Onions, parsnips, parsley, sweetcorn
• 3-4 years: Beans, peas, carrots, peppers, tomatoes
• 5+ years: Cucumbers, melons, squash, lettuce, radishes

These are general guidelines – proper storage can extend viability, while poor conditions can shorten it dramatically.

The Simple Paper Towel Germination Test

This is the easiest and most reliable method to test your seeds at home.

What You'll Need:

• Paper towels or coffee filters
• A plastic bag or container with a lid
• Water
• Your seeds to test

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Count out 10 seeds – This makes calculating the germination percentage easy. If you have very few seeds left, test at least 5.

2. Prepare the paper towel – Dampen a paper towel with water until it's moist but not dripping. Fold it in half.

3. Place the seeds – Arrange your seeds on one half of the towel, spacing them out so they don't touch. Fold the other half over to cover them.

4. Create humidity – Place the towel with seeds in a plastic bag or sealed container to maintain moisture. Don't seal it completely airtight – seeds need some air circulation.

5. Keep warm – Put the container in a warm spot (around 20-25°C works for most seeds). Avoid direct sunlight.

6. Check daily – Keep the towel moist by misting with water if needed. Check for germination daily.

7. Count the results – After the recommended germination time for your seed type (usually 7-14 days), count how many seeds sprouted.

Understanding Your Results:

• 80-100% germination: Excellent! Use these seeds as you normally would
• 50-80% germination: Acceptable – sow more densely than usual to compensate
• Below 50% germination: Consider buying fresh seeds, or sow very thickly and be prepared for gaps

Tips for Better Seed Storage

Want to keep your seeds viable longer? Follow these storage rules:

• Keep them cool: Store seeds in a cool place, ideally between 5-10°C. A refrigerator works well
• Keep them dry: Moisture is the enemy. Use silica gel packets or store seeds in airtight containers
• Keep them dark: Light can reduce viability. Opaque containers or drawers are ideal
• Label everything: Write the seed type and harvest/purchase year on each packet
• Avoid temperature fluctuations: Constant temperature is better than repeated warming and cooling

What to Do with Low-Viability Seeds

If your germination test shows poor results, you have several options:

• Sow extra thick: Plant 2-3 times your normal amount and thin later
• Start indoors: Give seeds optimal conditions for germination before transplanting
• Mix with fresh seeds: Combine old and new seeds to improve overall germination
• Use for practice: Let children use low-viability seeds for learning projects

Alternative Testing Methods

The Water Float Test

This quick method works for larger seeds like beans and peas. Drop seeds in water – viable seeds usually sink while non-viable ones float. However, this test is less reliable than the paper towel method, as some good seeds may float due to air pockets.

Direct Soil Testing

Plant 10 seeds in a small pot of seed-starting mix and count how many germinate. This mimics real growing conditions but takes longer and uses more resources.

Final Thoughts

Testing your old seeds takes just a few minutes and can save you from disappointment later in the season. With proper storage and regular testing, you can confidently use seeds for years beyond their packet date. Don't automatically throw away those forgotten seed packets – test them first, and you might be pleasantly surprised by their continued viability.

Happy growing!

Do you want your spring garden decorated with bright daffodils, intoxicatingly fragrant hyacinths and colourful tulips? The ideal time to plant bulbs is right now at the beginning of autumn.

February is the perfect time not only for sowing, but also for planning your planting. And planning your planting also means creating a list of plants to sow! Here are a few tips on what you should definitely try this year!